I cheated yesterday

Enjoying a cold one last February at "The Superbank"

Enjoying a cold one last February at “The Superbank”

After days of being snowed in, I’d developed a wicked case of cabin fever. A sunny, sixty-degree day was just what I needed. My five-year-old and I biked to a playground on the beach.

While my boy scurried about like a hamster on a wheel, I noticed a lone longboarder bobbing atop a generally flaccid sea. Then, a little ways down the beach, I noticed a roping righthander, then another.

The swell was from the south, the way I like it. This spot, I recalled, comes alive on a south, so much so that a few friends and I refer to it as “The Superbank” after the famed pointbreaks along Australia’s Gold Coast.

A memory popped into my brain of another day here just like this. It was, in fact, nearly one year ago to the day. I was too sick to go to school, but I mustered enough energy to surf perfect right barrels with only a few other people. Only for around five hours. I was too weak to stay out till dark.

Reminiscing about that day made me miss surfing more than I had all year, and finally the allure was too strong.

I cracked.

I couldn’t believe that no one but the single logger joined me. Every set produced a tuberide that was deeper than the last. I casually faded on a few, airdropped on others, each time angling beneath a pitching lip and pumping through a lengthy barrel. I got six or seven screamers and didn’t fall once.

Just after getting shot out of another smoker, I heard, “Dad, did you see that?” It was my son, giddy over almost traversing the monkey bars.

“What, huh? No, I missed it.” I was still trying to pull myself from the reverie. “Go do it again.”

I looked back to the waves, but they were knee high at best. Peeling seamlessly, but only knee high. Just like that, I was right back on the park bench sipping my Starbucks alongside the other parents.

I wonder if I’ll i ever watch a breaking wave and not surf it in my mind? For as long as I can remember, that’s what I’ve done. No matter how big or small, lined up or shutting down, crumbling or barreling its ass off, I’ve mentally ripped it.

Do I want to be able to watch a breaking wave without mindsurfing it? That would be like seeing a beautiful woman and not at least giving her a second, long glance. Is there a man on earth, no matter how happily married, who doesn’t do that? Appreciating beauty simply means we’re alive.

Heck, even K (my wife) checks out hot chicks. Not in a creepy way, I don’t think. Based on that fact, what I did shouldn’t really be considered cheating. Should it?

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One thought on “I cheated yesterday

  1. We all look at the boat wake on a lake or the tiny peelers on an ankle high day and imagine it was 10 times bigger. We see ourselves pulling in but for some reason; we never picture ourselves going over the falls.

    During my last trip to Brazil (minus board…a first for me), I took the neighbor kid to the beach for a few hours. He produced 2 water logged bodyboards. I relished in the act of riding closeouts. I even handed him one of his boards folded like a napkin.

    Not surfing as I always do but in a desert you have to drink from a mud puddle.

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