The post that changes lives, or the Little Lebowski Surfing Achievers and proud we are of all of them

dude
Surfers ride waves. Waves are a limited resource. There often aren’t enough to go around. I run a surf school. Surf schools create more surfers. Nature doesn’t make extra waves. Should I feel bad?

I don’t.

I really should see myself as a traitor, like I’m selling surfing out to the masses and ruining it for the hardcore regulars.

Yeah, not so much.

It’s not like I’m American Express, or Hollister, or Matthew McConaughey. Oh, you didn’t see Surfer, Dude? No? You’re lucky.
not dude
I might feel bad if I didn’t put my background as a pro surfer and educator to work in building a curriculum that creates responsible little watermen. Yes, I used the word “curriculum” when talking about a surf camp.

People who want to surf are going to learn, with me or with another program, or on their own. On their own, now there’s a concept. There was no such thing as surf camps or foam logs when I was learning. It took me a year to be able to consistently catch and ride waves, but many of my campers are self-sufficient within a week. Kinda pisses me off.

My surf school, as I’ve indicated, won’t be affected by my experiment this year. I’ll still be at camp every morning this summer to see that the show is running smoothly. Sure, not surfing would be easier if I stayed away from the beach, but nothing easy is worth doing. And it’s boring.

Which brings me to my idea. I was racking my brain to come up with a productive use of my time away from surfing, something that could potentially make a difference. I’m not religious, and I firmly believe in the separation of church and surf, yet I’m driven to use my poverty of waves to help and enrich others. Like Arthur Ashe said, “From what we get, we can make a living; what we give, however, makes a life.”

Here’s the best I could come up with. There are lots of kids out there who want to surf but cannot afford the cost of camp. Plenty of them live within a few miles of the surf but never experience what the ocean has to offer. This summer, I will personally teach any of them, and I’ll do it for free. That’s right, free surf lessons. If a thousand kids want to surf, great. If no one takes me up on this, I’ll be forced to do something drastic, like water birding.


All I ask is that each student write a letter/email explaining why he or she wants to surf. I promise to resist my teacherly urge to correct their grammar. Or at least try.

I’ll need your help. Spread the word to any people in need of stoke but without the necessary means for a – necessary means for a higher education. Do you really want the water bird pulling up at your local spot?

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One thought on “The post that changes lives, or the Little Lebowski Surfing Achievers and proud we are of all of them

  1. Jason,
    You probably will need to check my grammar as you did all through high school. Thanks to youI passed my English classes and I did graduate!
    I have enjoyed your post immensely and look forward to them daily. You have always been one to admire and proud to call a friend. I will definetly let some of the families I come in contact with about your offer. You are a gentleman and a scholar and keep up your quest my friend.
    My good friend Kevin Moore’s older brother Mike passed away in Top Sail N.C. this passed week while out enjoying a surf. There were many sad souls at his funeral but you could see in his surfing brotherhood that he went out doing what he loved all his life.
    Only if all of us could wish the same for everyone to be doing what they love when their time comes.
    ….. And yes feel free to correct my spelling and grammar before I turn this in to Winnie Rydell (R.i.p)

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